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Available Products & Spare Parts Eproms and U59 maps
Spare parts
Bikeboy Eproms and U59 Maps - Updated 10/07, 03/08, 9/08, 11/08, 03/09 Below is a list of eproms and maps I have developed for various bikes and offer for sale or use in the Ultimap U59 ECU. The specifics of each combination the mapping has been developed for is given. These combinations are designed to be (generally) easily repeatable. All eproms are au$242, including gst as applicable and postage. Dealer enquiries welcome. All eproms are supplied with an eprom removal tool to remove the original eprom. Installation of the new eprom is best done with careful and patient fingers. The proper set up of TPS (throttle position sensor), throttle balance and idle mixture is required for them to work as we intend. Preferably with the idle mixture for each cylinder set individually using the air bleeds in conjunction with the idle trimmer on all Ducati and Moto Guzzi models. “Trimmer setting” refers to the position of the idle trim pot in the1.6M ECU, and is an approximate guide as used on the development bike. The trimmer has 270 degrees of rotation, denoted as +/- from the mid point setting (or rich / lean) in degrees. Rich is anti clockwise from rotation mid point, lean is clockwise from rotation mid point, up to a maximum of 135 degrees in each direction. See the photo below
See the following throttle body set up reports for more info on specific set ups. To install the eprom you need to get into the ECU and remove the original eprom. ECU id is as below:
P7 and P8 For the P7 and P8 ECU fitted to some Ducati and Moto Guzzi models (also Laverda 668) you remove the bottom cover as below and the eprom can be seen, highlighted here by the red circle.
Removal is straight forward, as I’ve never seen a P7 or P8 with any sort of eprom cap or cover. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom simply pull up gently to remove it. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. But if it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you. The socket the eprom goes into has a wide indentation at one end as circled below in blue. The notch in the eprom (circled in green) needs to go to this end. Put it in the wrong way and it will either not work properly (runs the pump continuously) or blow the eprom up. When they blow up they give a little flash then nothing. Yes, I’ve done it.
For the 1.6M ECU you remove the round rubber plug under the “Do not remove” sticker and the eprom is directly under that, as per the photo below.
Being very careful remove the grey blobs of silicone (the greatest goop ever) from either end of the eprom and its little white plastic clip on cover. It’s common to lose them inside the ECU case – just hold it upside down and roll them out as required. Then using a small blade and extreme care (usually the amount of care is inversely proportional to the number of times you’ve done it) pry the tangs of the white plastic clip on cover sideways out from under the eprom socket base and remove the white cover. You might have to go fishing for this too.
This exposes the eprom. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom remove it as well. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. If it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you.
You’ll also notice that the socket that the eprom sits on and the pins go into has a notch at one end. The eprom also has a notch, usually hidden under the grey goop. This is the locating notch, and the new eprom needs to be fitted with its notch (circled in green) at the same end. Put it in the wrong way and it will not work properly (runs the pump continuously).
Prices All eproms are au$242, including gst. Dealer enquiries welcome. Ducati Eproms Notes: The cam timing used is as stated, as this is often the reason for developing a new eprom. Idle mixture for all Ducati eproms is 5% CO, excepting 748R which is 4% CO.
Moto Guzzi eproms Note: Idle mixture setting for the Moto Guzzi eproms is 4% CO.
MV Agusta eproms Notes: All MV eproms have been developed with ‘as delivered’ cam timing which has not been checked - MV Agusta refuse to give out cam timing specs anyway. Idle mixture for all MV eproms is 3% CO.
Ultimap U59 ECU Notes: The cam timing used is as stated. Idle mixture for all U59 maps is 5% CO. Idle mixture is set electronically via the Ultimap Diagnostic software, Ducati Mathesis or DDS or Technoresearch VDSTS software.
1.5M ECU – Ducati and Moto Guzzi I also have quite a few 1.5M ECU maps to suit Ducati 750SSie, 900SSie, 900Mie (’00 and ’01) and Moto Guzzi V11 models. If you have an engine specification in mind, ask and I’ll let you know what I can supply. Below is a selection of some of the spare parts we have in stock. We can supply any genuine or non genuine parts required, those below are just a few that stand out. Note that all prices include GST. Fuel filters We stock the aluminium bodied fuel filter as used in most fuel injected BMW, Ducati, MV Agusta and some Aprilia and Moto Guzzi models. These are made by the OEM supplier and are identical to the genuine parts apart except for the specific label and price. Buy them in lots of 5 or more and you’ll get 10% off. I nominally list them under the BMW part number, the Ducati part number is 42540041B.
EXACTFIT Timing belts
Brad The Bike Boy is the Australian distributor for the EXACTFIT range of timing belts from California Cycleworks. These belts are exact duplicates of the OE belt in every way utilizing the same core materials, the same rubber exterior, the same inner facing weave and exactly the same tooth profile. The manufacturer is a US based global supplier of a wide variety of belt for transportation OE applications and has extensive experience making automotive timing belts for many major manufacturers. The belts themselves are made in China. For some more info click here for the California Cycleworks page. The EXACTFIT range covers every Ducati belt drive model except square tooth belt 500, 600 and 750 engines (all pre 1998) and the 748R (same as TB996, but 2mm wider). The replacement schedule for these belts remains the same as the Ducati specification of 2 years or 20,000km, whichever comes first. Fitment is as below. Prices include GST. The genuine Ducati price is for a comparative guide. Trade enquiries welcome.
Gates timing belts We also stock Gates timing belts for some of the Ducati models. These are not genuine Ducati belts, which are also made by Gates. The Gates 2V belts were all we used at Moto One for the time I was there without issue. The 4V belts are a HSN style belt like the earlier Ducati belts and the highest spec belt Gates sell outside of OE supply. They are not the same as the red writing, kevlar reinforced belts produced by Ducati since ’99 or so. If in doubt, don’t use them. They do not fit any of the dropped exhaust cam engines fitted to S4, ST4, ST4S and the last of the 748 models in ’01 and ‘02. These belts need to be replaced every two years regardless of km as the Ducati service schedule specifies, and I cannot stress that strongly enough. Again, if you don’t like the sound of that, don’t use them. The close up photo on the left shows the difference between the square tooth belts (066029090-1) and round tooth belts (all other models). 600, 620, 695, 750 and 800 models from ’98 onward use a round tooth belt of the same length as the square tooth belt with EXACTFIT # TB800 and Ducati # 73710021A and 73740072A. Don’t mix them up!
Ducati Clutch packs and clutch baskets We stock Barnett clutch packs with aluminium backed friction plates to suit the dry clutch models and locally manufactured light steel clutch baskets. Similar to the factory lightweight clutch baskets, these baskets are thicker at the friction plate slots to help reduce the beating wear from the friction plate tangs. Combined with the Barnett aluminium pack the basket wear will be greatly reduced.
Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Rocker Arms (changeover) We have a stock of Ducati 4V Desmoquattro opening rocker arms that have been rechromed by a local hard chroming company. Stripped, polished, chromed to 0.05mm thickness (0.002”), hydrogen de-embrittled and finish polished. They seem to be quite reliable in use. The way I identify them is by holding the rocker at the pivot end and pointing the valve pad end away from me. If the valve pad is to the left, I call them LH. If the valve pad is to the right, I call them RH. The photo might help explain myself.
We also have one RH closing rocker available as a changeover part. To be changed over the damaged rockers themselves need to be in good condition under the chrome. Any obvious wear or gouging of the base material makes them unsuitable for reconditioning.
We have quite a few genuine Ducati spark plugs for 749/999 and 1098 models. The 749/999 plugs are Champion brand plugs in Ducati boxes, the 1098 plugs are NGK brand plugs (dual ground electrode style) in Ducati boxes.
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