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Available Products & Spare Parts Flashing, Eproms and U59 maps
Spare parts
Bikeboy Eproms and U59 Maps - Updated 10/07, 03/08, 9/08, 11/08, 03/09 Below is a list of eproms and maps I have developed for various bikes and offer for sale or use in the Ultimap U59 ECU. The specifics of each combination the mapping has been developed for is given. These combinations are designed to be (generally) easily repeatable. All eproms are au$242, including gst as applicable and postage. Dealer enquiries welcome. All eproms are supplied with an eprom removal tool to remove the original eprom. Installation of the new eprom is best done with careful and patient fingers. The proper set up of TPS (throttle position sensor), throttle balance and idle mixture is required for them to work as we intend. Preferably with the idle mixture for each cylinder set individually using the air bleeds in conjunction with the idle trimmer on all Ducati and Moto Guzzi models. “Trimmer setting” refers to the position of the idle trim pot in the1.6M ECU, and is an approximate guide as used on the development bike. The trimmer has 270 degrees of rotation, denoted as +/- from the mid point setting (or rich / lean) in degrees. Rich is anti clockwise from rotation mid point, lean is clockwise from rotation mid point, up to a maximum of 135 degrees in each direction. See the photo below
See the following throttle body set up reports for more info on specific set ups. To install the eprom you need to get into the ECU and remove the original eprom. ECU id is as below:
P7 and P8 For the P7 and P8 ECU fitted to some Ducati and Moto Guzzi models (also Laverda 668) you remove the bottom cover as below and the eprom can be seen, highlighted here by the red circle.
Removal is straight forward, as I’ve never seen a P7 or P8 with any sort of eprom cap or cover. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom simply pull up gently to remove it. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. But if it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you. The socket the eprom goes into has a wide indentation at one end as circled below in blue. The notch in the eprom (circled in green) needs to go to this end. Put it in the wrong way and it will either not work properly (runs the pump continuously) or blow the eprom up. When they blow up they give a little flash then nothing. Yes, I’ve done it.
For the 1.6M ECU you remove the round rubber plug under the “Do not remove” sticker and the eprom is directly under that, as per the photo below.
Being very careful remove the grey blobs of silicone (the greatest goop ever) from either end of the eprom and its little white plastic clip on cover. It’s common to lose them inside the ECU case – just hold it upside down and roll them out as required. Then using a small blade and extreme care (usually the amount of care is inversely proportional to the number of times you’ve done it) pry the tangs of the white plastic clip on cover sideways out from under the eprom socket base and remove the white cover. You might have to go fishing for this too.
This exposes the eprom. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom remove it as well. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. If it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you.
You’ll also notice that the socket that the eprom sits on and the pins go into has a notch at one end. The eprom also has a notch, usually hidden under the grey goop. This is the locating notch, and the new eprom needs to be fitted with its notch (circled in green) at the same end. Put it in the wrong way and it will not work properly (runs the pump continuously).
Prices All eproms are au$242, including gst. Dealer enquiries welcome. Ducati Eproms Notes: The cam timing used is as stated, as this is often the reason for developing a new eprom. Idle mixture for all Ducati eproms is 5% CO, excepting 748R which is 4% CO.
Moto Guzzi eproms Note: Idle mixture setting for the Moto Guzzi eproms is 4% CO.
MV Agusta eproms Notes: All MV eproms have been developed with ‘as delivered’ cam timing which has not been checked - MV Agusta refuse to give out cam timing specs anyway. Idle mixture for all MV eproms is 3% CO.
Ultimap U59 ECU Notes: The cam timing used is as stated. Idle mixture for all U59 maps is 5% CO. Idle mixture is set electronically via the Ultimap Diagnostic software, Ducati Mathesis or DDS or Technoresearch VDSTS software.
1.5M ECU – Ducati and Moto Guzzi I also have quite a few 1.5M ECU maps to suit Ducati 750SSie, 900SSie, 900Mie (’00 and ’01) and Moto Guzzi V11 models. If you have an engine specification in mind, ask and I’ll let you know what I can supply. ECU reflashing for Ducati, Moto Guzzi and MV Agusta models - New 11/11 In addition to working with the old eprom style ecu (P7, P8, 1.6M) and the 1.5M ecu we now have hardware and software to reflash the 59M, 5AM and 5SM ecu fitted to all Ducati since 2002 and later Moto Guzzi and MV models. We can also modify the mapping and virginise or remove immobilisor functions. We don’t have maps for all models, but the library is continually expanding and will, in the future, also include the Siemens ecu in the 696, 796 and 1100 Monster and Hyper models and the Mitsubishi ecu in the MTS1200. For the 59M, 5AM and 5SM prices are $250 to virginise or remove immobilisor functions (some early 59M are not successful), $350 to reflash with an “off the shelf” map and $460 to supply a reflashed ecu outright. Custom remapping will be charged somewhat on a time taken basis, depending on what is required, how long it all takes and the potential for future reuse. Spare Parts - Updated 8/09 11/11 Below is a selection of some of the spare parts we have in stock. We can supply any genuine or non genuine parts required, those below are just a few that stand out. Note that all prices include GST. Fuel filters We stock the aluminium bodied fuel filter as used in most fuel injected BMW, Ducati, MV Agusta and some Aprilia and Moto Guzzi models. These are made by the OEM supplier and are identical to the genuine parts apart except for the specific label and price. Buy them in lots of 5 or more and you’ll get 10% off. I nominally list them under the BMW part number, the Ducati part number is 42540041B.
EXACTFIT Replacement Fuel Pumps - New 11/11 The EXACTFIT Replacement Fuel Pump range comprises 3 pumps that cover most fuel injected Ducatis from 1995 onwards and some Aprilia, Moto Guzzi, Husqvarna, Husaberg and KTM models. The 916 type pump will also fit the small diameter pump 888 with a change of connector, but not the large diameter pump 851 models. On the Husqvarna and KTM models in particular this pump replaces the original that is only available as a complete assembly from the manufacturer. Be aware that I know absolutely nothing about Husqvarna, KTM or Husaberg bikes, so I will most likely be of no help with regard to fitments.
The dimensions of the steel body section and outlet barb diameter are given to allow confirmation of fitments in models not specified.
EXACTFIT Ignition coils for Ducati 2V models - New 11/11 These replacement coils for Ducati 2V models fit all carby models from 1991 onward (possibly some of the 1985 – 1990 models too, I’ve seen them on 88-89 750 Sports) and the Monster ie motors with this style coil (as opposed to the SS/ST/4V style coil with the two wire locking AMP weatherpack connector). A dead easy bolt on (seriously, a 15 minute job if you take your time on a Monster or SS), they’re a great replacement should you need new coils and an improvement over the original parts.
I fitted a pair to a 400 Monster (the model in the range in need of most help rideability wise) for a trial. This 400 had recently had a 20,000km service and the cams advanced to 108 degree inlet centrelines, so we knew everything was where I wanted it (valve clearances, spark plug gaps, etc) and as such it was a good baseline for a coil swap. The owner Jason gave the following feedback. I was hoping for a bit of extra pep launching off the line at stop lights, but I didn't really see an improvement there - just don't have the horsepower, perhaps - but I did see some improvements. I’ve included all the comments to show what you will and won’t get from these coils, and to point out the main improvements are not the immediately noticeable straight line performance, but in day to day conditions which are, in the end, of much more value. The fact the feedback includes comments the owner wasn’t expecting to make is good – it’s always more honest that way. As a general rule these comments are what you hear after having these coils fitted. For the money it’s a good mod, especially for those who do a lot of daily commute type riding. I actually fitted a pair to Minnie this last week as I tried to find an intermittent cylinder drop at idle issue. After I’d done the hard stuff like replacing the pickups, of course. I had fitted Minnie with a pair of green Dynas years ago when one of the original coils died. Replacing them with the Exactfits gave a definite improvement in response from a closed throttle hot and cold, and to cold idling. I was rather surprised how long she would idle for on a cold start without choke. Wish I’d tried this some time ago.
EXACTFIT Timing belts - Updated 11/11
Brad The Bike Boy is the Australian distributor for the EXACTFIT range of timing belts from California Cycleworks. These belts are exact duplicates of the OE belt in every way utilizing the same core materials, the same rubber exterior, the same inner facing weave and exactly the same tooth profile. The manufacturer is a US based global supplier of a wide variety of belt for transportation OE applications and has extensive experience making automotive timing belts for many major manufacturers. The belts themselves are made in China. For some more info click here for the California Cycleworks page. The EXACTFIT range covers every Ducati belt drive model except square tooth belt 500, 600 and 750 engines (all pre 1998) and the 748R (same as TB996, but 2mm wider). The replacement schedule for these belts remains the same as the Ducati specification of 2 years or 20,000km, whichever comes first. Fitment is as below. Prices include GST. The genuine Ducati price is for a comparative guide. Trade enquiries welcome.
Gates timing belts We also stock Gates timing belts for some of the Ducati models. These are not genuine Ducati belts, which are also made by Gates. The Gates 2V belts were all we used at Moto One for the time I was there without issue. The close up photo on the left shows the difference between the square tooth belts (066029090-1) and round tooth belts (all other models). 600, 620, 695, 750 and 800 models from ’98 onward use a round tooth belt of the same length as the square tooth belt with EXACTFIT # TB800 and Ducati # 73710021A and 73740072A. Don’t mix them up!
Ducati Clutch packs and clutch baskets We stock Barnett clutch packs with aluminium backed friction plates to suit the dry clutch models and locally manufactured light steel clutch baskets. Similar to the factory lightweight clutch baskets, these baskets are thicker at the friction plate slots to help reduce the beating wear from the friction plate tangs. Combined with the Barnett aluminium pack the basket wear will be greatly reduced.
Ducati 4V Desmoquattro Rocker Arms (changeover) We have a stock of Ducati 4V Desmoquattro opening rocker arms that have been rechromed by a local hard chroming company. Stripped, polished, chromed to 0.05mm thickness (0.002”), hydrogen de-embrittled and finish polished. They seem to be quite reliable in use. The way I identify them is by holding the rocker at the pivot end and pointing the valve pad end away from me. If the valve pad is to the left, I call them LH. If the valve pad is to the right, I call them RH. The photo might help explain myself.
We also have one RH closing rocker available as a changeover part. To be changed over the damaged rockers themselves need to be in good condition under the chrome. Any obvious wear or gouging of the base material makes them unsuitable for reconditioning.
Ca Cycleworks 6.4 Gallon Hypermotard Fuel Tank - New 11/11 We are now stocking the HM69 22 litre fuel tank from California Cycleworks. This tank replaces the original tank and with the removal of the airbox increases the fuel capacity by nearly 10 litres. The airbox is replaced with pod filters and the space previously taken up by the airbox becomes fuel tank.
Fitting is fairly straightforward, and I’d quote 3.5 hours to do it. Those capable of pulling stuff apart and getting it back together again in a working condition won’t have any trouble. Like many late model Ducati, the Hypermotard design is a major obstacle and time consumer, but you just need to follow the included instructions and be patient. The tank comes with all required parts - air filters, cables, zip ties, etc and colour instructions. The air filters differ between the 2008/2009 models and the 2010 Evo 1100 and 796 models, so you need to specify the year and model when ordering to ensure the correct filters are supplied. Price includes freight to all eastern states, TAS and SA. WA and NT will incur an extra $25 freight cost. Black tanks will be stocked, but other colours – White, Red and Natural (see through-ish) are available on special order.
MV Agusta Rear wheel bearing - New 11/11 We now have some reasonably priced replacement double row ball bearings for the MV rear hubs, sourced from the USA. They are not made by INA, the OEM supplier, but come from a reputable company. They are also about a third of the price of the INA parts. I regard these bearings as a service item, and replace many every 12,000km. You need to remove the axle to check them, and if I can feel any roughness I replace. Due to the carnage a failure generates I feel the paranoid approach is justified. The bearing itself is simply inappropriate for the job - you can deform the outer race with your hand. The last one I replaced had very obvious differences in roughness from when the hub was torqued in the swingarm (very noticeable), removed from the swingarm (barely noticeable) and finally when the bearing was removed from the hub (felt perfectly ok). The needle roller on the LH side I’ve never replaced in normal service, and they aren’t a problem in my opinion.
The Exactfit range of O-rings (OR- prefix) are made from Viton and designed to replace genuine Ducati and MV O-rings at a reduced cost. Savings vary, but the last genuine 1098 fuel pump flange O-ring I ordered from Ducati retailed for over $100! Size given is nominal to help you work out what you need – there are some variations in later Monster and Sport Classic fitments for example. We also stock a large range of genuine Ducati and Aprilia, BMW and Moto Guzzi O-rings for common service applications.
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