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750 F1 Laguna Seca (Just Rambling And Some Dellorto Tuning Info)
Updated Jan ’06 table of needle tapers/specs at the very bottom.
Yes, old stuff. We have a customer who has quite a lot of bikes, so we have to work on them all, old and new. Some of them had been sitting for a while, so I got to give them a quick go through to make them run nice again. After his 76 900SS and MHR Mille, the 750F1 Laguna came in. It was running a bit funny and allegedly dropping a cylinder at times. I don't have the specs anywhere, so I just centered the point of overlap. If it's in that range it should be pretty good. At this position, the specs are @ 1mm (0.040") The inlet is off the seat 360 degrees at 0.004" clearance. Ya gotta ask yourself 'how does that work?' The curves are: red std F1 exhaust, green - std F1 inlet, orange - Laguna exhaust, purple - Laguna inlet. And another email with some more info about these cams: I have a set of those cams. I'm toying with installing them in my F1!?! Some friends raced one, nationally, in BOTT. I ported the heads and offered to put it on the dyno but they never took me up on it. I was told that it didn't pull at all, below 5000RPM. I wouldn't doubt that the one I did with 900SS cams made more power as well as having a wider power band. These cams really need huge ports with a really huge seat ID. No low lift flow makes it act like a much shorter cam. Also helps kill some of the out-flow at over-lap. The other side is that they would work with really small ports because they are so long. A small port needs time to accelerate. The fact is, the 'factory' bikes used 43 and 38 valve sizes. (Is that a familiar size?) Can you imagine how sunken the valve seats are on that head? And the dome on the pistons? Therein lies my quandary with using them on mine. They really deserve the right size valves, but my heads are the earliest F1 heads and they have 37 and 33.5 valves with 14mm spark plug holes. I can't put big valve seats in them without cracking from the sparkplug holes to the exhaust seats. If I use the smaller valves (the seats are big enough to take 39mm inlets) it might actually work OK, but then it wouldn't be anything like the original. Oh, and there's one more problem. The cases are pre-Paso and are prone to cracking with high RPMs. Kind of sums it up. If you look at the cam profiles you can easily see just how much bigger the cams are. Both lobes have over 300 degrees duration at 1mm lift, whereas the std cams have 261/262 degrees. And most of the increase for both lobes is in the overlap area. The specs are actually rather similar to the 4V G cam Corsa specs, even the lift is similar. Just like the std 750 profiles are similar to the std 4v cams. There’s a fellow in Sydney who works at Gowanlochs with one of these who says his is great from 9,000 to 11,000 RPM, so maybe I wasn’t revving it enough.
Just to give you an idea of how bad this engine works (as a street engine), lest some of you actually believe these cams have potential, here are some other 750 runs. The blue curve is a 97 750SS with a jet kit, mufflers and cams dialled. The yellow curve is the 750SS ie with 900 cams and bigger 620 headers. Not that the blue or yellow curves are really that good for a 750 engine (the 800 is soooo much better, for basic reasons). So, Id found a new low in Ducati 750 2V engine performance. Great.
You might be wondering about the big dip at around 3,500 4,000 RPM. Thats what you get with big cams and carbs like this and no air flowing to pull the fuel through the jets. The next graph shows the red torque and air/fuel curves. The big dip and lean air/fuel spike lagging that little bit are what happens when the pump shot fuel runs out before the air starts moving. Nothing much at all. Once it gets its act together it actually comes out of it quite well, and the air/fuel, albeit a little on the rich side, is fairly good. Given its running on a main jet only, the relative flatness of the air/fuel is quite surprising.
Next I did some part throttle runs (just approximated) of eighth, quarter, half and three quarter throttle to get some air/fuel numbers. Eighth is red, quarter is green, half is blue and three quarter is yellow. The red curve is not much of a curve at all it just goes way rich, whereas the others are fairly good. I must say I was quite surprised by the evenness of the curves, as Ive never got this far into a carb bike before, and the Dellortos are somewhat crude carbs at that. I expected the transition from needle/atomizer to main jet to be around three quarter throttle-ish. From the yellow three quarter trace(with great big dip), which is very similar to the WOT trace and not like the quarter and half throttle traces, it must be between half and three quarter somewhere. The transition is simply because the amount of fuel the needle/atomizer allows through increases as the needle lifts out of the atomizer (with the slide going up) until the flow area equals that of the main jet. The fuel flows through the main jet up to the bottom of the atomizer, so the main jet ultimately controls the maximum fuel flow rate.
This confirmed what I new I was way too rich down low, and not quite so rich above that. So back I went and played as much as I could to lean the low throttle without re-introducing my off the line stumble. Ultimately I was somewhat successful, but its a battle I was never going to win. If I had some leaner slides (70 series) maybe Id have got there, but I dont know. At least the owner accepts that the big cams and 40mm carbs (the draw card of the model) are the problems, and that we could make it very nice with some std cams and 36mm carbs.
Compare this to the 750SS ie with 900 cams. Here are runs for WOT in red (approx 83 degrees throttle), 60 degrees in green and 48 degrees in blue. Its odd how theres a noticeable difference at around three quarter throttle with 45mm throttle bodies.
Finally, Ill add the needle spec pages from the Dellorto books. The rest of the books are available from the links below, but the needle specs didnt seem to make it.
Update: Dellorto Needle Info. I made up a spreadsheet to compare needles with regard to tapers, etc and diameters at given distance from the tip. This makes it somewhat easier to work out if anything else will suffice or work better than what you have. The list is sorted by taper, which is a bit more appropriate than by number I think. Spreadsheet Link (xls file) You can also use the “comparison” page of this spreadsheet to calculate flow areas to really compare different needles and needle jets. You need to cut and paste the needle diameter line from the ‘taper’ sheet (not the ‘needle specs’ sheet) into the ‘comparison’ sheet and enter your needle jet diameter for that particular needle. Hopefully it’s easy enough to work out. Home | Blog | Facebook | Service Enquiry | Products | Reports | The Dyno | Disclaimer | Contact Us |