Available Products & Spare Parts
Flashing, Eproms and U59 maps
Bikeboy Eproms and U59 Maps - Updated 5/20
Below is a list of eproms and maps I have developed for various bikes and offer for sale or use in the Ultimap U59 ECU. The specifics of each combination the mapping has been developed for is given. These combinations are designed to be (generally) easily repeatable. All eproms are au$275, including gst as applicable and postage. Dealer enquiries welcome. All eproms are supplied with an eprom removal tool to remove the original eprom. Installation of the new eprom is best done with careful and patient fingers.
The proper set up of TPS (throttle position sensor), throttle balance and idle mixture is required for them to work as we intend. Preferably with the idle mixture for each cylinder set individually using the air bleeds in conjunction with the idle trimmer on all Ducati and Moto Guzzi models.
“Trimmer setting” refers to the position of the idle trim pot in the1.6M ECU, and is an approximate guide as used on the development bike. The trimmer has 270 degrees of rotation, denoted as +/- from the mid point setting (or rich / lean) in degrees. Rich is anti clockwise from rotation mid point, lean is clockwise from rotation mid point, up to a maximum of 135 degrees in each direction. See the photo below
See the following throttle body set up reports for more info on specific set ups.
To install the eprom you need to get into the ECU and remove the original eprom. ECU id is as below:
P7 and P8
For the P7 and P8 ECU fitted to some Ducati and Moto Guzzi models (also Laverda 668) you remove the bottom cover as below and the eprom can be seen, highlighted here by the red circle.
Removal is straight forward, as I’ve never seen a P7 or P8 with any sort of eprom cap or cover. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom simply pull up gently to remove it. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. But if it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you. The socket the eprom goes into has a wide indentation at one end as circled below in blue. The notch in the eprom (circled in green) needs to go to this end. Put it in the wrong way and it will either not work properly (runs the pump continuously) or blow the eprom up. When they blow up they give a little flash then nothing. Yes, I’ve done it.
For the 1.6M ECU you remove the round rubber plug under the “Do not remove” sticker and the eprom is directly under that, as per the photo below.
Being very careful remove the grey blobs of silicone (the greatest goop ever) from either end of the eprom and its little white plastic clip on cover. It’s common to lose them inside the ECU case just hold it upside down and roll them out as required. Then using a small blade and extreme care (usually the amount of care is inversely proportional to the number of times you’ve done it) pry the tangs of the white plastic clip on cover sideways out from under the eprom socket base and remove the white cover. You might have to go fishing for this too.
This exposes the eprom. Using an eprom puller under each end of the eprom remove it as well. Many people like to use anti static mats and the like when removing/fitting eproms to stop static electricity from damaging the eprom. Personally I never do and have never had a problem. If it concerns you, go to an electrical supplies shop and fit yourself out. If any of this eprom swapping daunts you, get someone who has done it before to do it for you.
You’ll also notice that the socket that the eprom sits on and the pins go into has a notch at one end. The eprom also has a notch, usually hidden under the grey goop. This is the locating notch, and the new eprom needs to be fitted with its notch (circled in green) at the same end. Put it in the wrong way and it will not work properly (runs the pump continuously).
All eproms are au$275, including gst. Dealer enquiries welcome.
Notes: The cam timing used is as stated, as this is often the reason for developing a new eprom. Idle mixture for all Ducati eproms is 5% CO, excepting 748R which is 4% CO.
Moto Guzzi eproms
Note: Idle mixture setting for the Moto Guzzi eproms is 4% CO.
MV Agusta eproms
Notes: All MV eproms have been developed with ‘as delivered’ cam timing which has not been checked - MV Agusta refuse to give out cam timing specs anyway. Idle mixture for all MV eproms is 3% CO.
In addition to working with the old eprom style ecu (P7, P8, 1.6M) we now have hardware and software to reflash the 1.5M, 1.5RC, 59M, 5AM and 5SM ecu fitted to Ducati models since 2002 and later Moto Guzzi and MV models, the Siemens ecu in the 696, 796 and 1100 Monster and Hyper models and the Mitsubishi ecu in the MTS1200, Diavel and Panigale.
I can disable lambda sensors (closed loop), exhaust valves and immobilisors, change dash messages and modify mapping as required.
This is done via the Rexxer or other tools as required. Reflashing done with tools other than the Rexxer carries a money back guarantee. I can’t offer this with Rexxer reflashing due to the credit based system used.
Prices are $400 to reflash and $525 to supply a reflashed ecu outright.
As with the eproms, the proper set up of TPS (throttle position sensor), throttle balance and idle mixture is required for the mappings to work as intended. Preferably with the idle mixture for each cylinder set individually using the air bleeds in conjunction with the idle trimmer, depending on ecu brand and tune options. For instance, there isn’t an idle mixture adjustment function on the Siemens or Mitsubishi ecu.
Associated labour times for the flashing is charged extra as required. For instance, setting idle mixtures or removing the lambda probes on the MTS1200 or Diavel, etc.
Custom remapping is charged on a time taken basis, depending on what is required and how long it all takes.
Below is a selection of some of the spare parts we have in stock. We can supply any genuine or non genuine parts required, those below are just a few that stand out. Note that all prices include GST.
Fuel filters - Updated 5/20
KL145: BMW part number 16142325859, Ducati part number 42540041B. The aluminium bodied filter as used in most fuel injected BMW, Ducati, MV Agusta and some Aprilia and Moto Guzzi models.
KL97: Ducati part number 42540151A. The plastic filter used in the S4Rs, M696/796/1100, HM796/1100, etc.
I don’t have an aftermarket source for the grey FIAAM 42540101A filter as used in the Ducati 749/999.
The EXACTFIT Replacement Fuel Pump range comprises 5 pump sets that cover most fuel injected Ducatis from 1995 onwards and some Aprilia, Moto Guzzi, Husqvarna, Husaberg, KTM and Yamaha WR250 models.
The 916 type pump will also fit the small diameter pump 888 with a change of connector, but not the large diameter pump 851 models (Bosch 0580464998). It also works fine in the carburettor SS models with the right connector. You can also cut the ringlet terminals off the original wiring and fit the appropriate female spade connectors.
The Husqvarna and KTM pump replaces the original that is only available as a complete assembly from the manufacturer. Be aware that I know absolutely nothing about Husqvarna, KTM or Husaberg bikes, so I will most likely be of no help with regard to fitments.
The FP-HUS-F suits Husqvarna models with a 6-Hole Oval Fuel Flange, which looks very much identical to the Aprilia SXV/RXV 4.5 and 5.5 fuel pump mount plate to me. This is the same pump as the FP-HUS, but with different hose and clamps supplied.
The WR250 pump is the original FP-HUS, which had a smaller and smooth outlet tube compared to the current FP-HUS.
The dimensions of the steel body section and outlet barb diameter are given to allow confirmation of fitments in models not specified. Measurements are in mm.
Click on the model # for full details and images.
EXACTFIT Timing belts - Updated 5/20
Brad The Bike Boy is the Australian distributor for the EXACTFIT range of timing belts from California Cycleworks. These belts are exact duplicates of the OE belt in every way utilizing the same core materials, the same rubber exterior, the same inner facing weave and exactly the same tooth profile. The manufacturer is a US based global supplier of a wide variety of belt for transportation OE applications and has extensive experience making automotive timing belts for many major manufacturers. The belts themselves are made in China.
For some more info click here for the California Cycleworks page.
The EXACTFIT range covers every Ducati belt drive model including the square tooth belt 500, 600 and 750 engines (all pre 1998) and the 748R (same as TB996, but 2mm wider). The replacement schedule for these belts remains the same as the Ducati specification of 2 years or 20,000km, whichever comes first. Fitment is as below. Prices include GST. Trade enquiries welcome.
We stock locally manufactured light steel clutch baskets. Similar to the factory lightweight clutch baskets, these baskets are thicker at the friction plate slots to help reduce the beating wear from the friction plate tangs. Combined with an aluminium pack the basket wear will be greatly reduced. Weight is just on 1000gms, about 500gms heavier than an aluminium basket.
We have a stock of Ducati 4V Desmoquattro opening rocker arms that have been rechromed by a local hard chroming company. Stripped, polished, chromed to 0.05mm thickness (0.002”), hydrogen de-embrittled and finish polished. They seem to be quite reliable in use. The way I identify them is by holding the rocker at the pivot end and pointing the valve pad end away from me. If the valve pad is to the left, I call them LH. If the valve pad is to the right, I call them RH. The photo might help explain myself.
We also have one RH closing rocker available as a changeover part.
To be changed over the damaged rockers themselves need to be in good condition under the chrome. Any obvious wear or gouging of the base material makes them unsuitable for reconditioning.
We now have some reasonably priced replacement double row ball bearings for the MV rear hubs, sourced from the USA. They are not made by INA, the OEM supplier, but come from a reputable company. They are also about a third of the price of the INA parts. I regard these bearings as a service item, and replace many every 12,000km. You need to remove the axle to check them, and if I can feel any roughness I replace. Due to the carnage a failure generates I feel the paranoid approach is justified.
The bearing itself is simply inappropriate for the job - you can deform the outer race with your hand. The last one I replaced had very obvious differences in roughness from when the hub was torqued in the swingarm (very noticeable), removed from the swingarm (barely noticeable) and finally when the bearing was removed from the hub (felt perfectly ok).
The needle roller on the LH side I’ve never replaced in normal service, and they aren’t a problem in my opinion.